Houttuynia Cordata Skin Benefits – Is Heartleaf Korea’s Newest Darling in 2023?

Houttuynia Cordata is all the rage in Korean skincare in 2023. Its claim to fame is delivering immaculate glass skin.

Korean glass skin has become quite a universally understood term for excellent skin. There must be a reason for the almost characteristically good complexion among Korean women (and men).

What powers the efficacy of Korean skincare products? I love geeking out on skincare, and here at Garden of Muses, we’ve written about other trending ingredients: Centella Asiatica (Tiger Grass), Mugwort (Artemisia), and ginseng.

Today, let’s decode an ingredient skyrocketing in popularity in Korean skincare: Heartleaf. What drives its potency, and why should you not miss it? Here’s the low-down. 

What Is Houttuynia Cordata?

Heartleaf, or Houttuynia Cordata, is a flowering plant indigenous to Southeast Asia belonging to the Saururaceae family. Houttuynia cordata has many common names, such as fish mint, fish leaf, fishwort, Heartleaf houttuynia, rainbow plant, chameleon plant, dokudami, or Chinese lizard tail. In skin care, it is often referred to as Heartleaf.

The Houttuynia Cordata is a plant with heart-shaped green leaves that grows over the ground to form thick leafy meadows.

It is native to Southeast Asia, including Japan, China, and Vietnam, but it has also been naturalized in North America. It is mainly found in moist and shady locations and is known for its medicinal properties and distinctive aroma.

Houttuynia Cordata’s Uses

While you can consume Heartleaf as a vegetable, the plant has also been an elixir in traditional medicine for years. Heartleaf has been used extensively to treat various ailments, including high blood sugar, cholera, and deficiencies. 

Health Benefits

Doing specific research on the chemical composition of this plant, I read that Houttuynia Cordata is a super-active ingredient with many functions for the skin.

The main active constituents in Heartleaf are called flavonoids. In particular, polyphenolic flavonoids are the four main types in Heartleaf: Quercetin, Quercitrin, Hyperoside, and Rutin. These compounds all exhibit similar properties of being anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiviral, antitumor, antiallergic, and antibacterial. 

Due to its health benefits, Houttuynia cordata is studied both in Western medicine and in traditional Asian medicines, with promising benefits for constipation, hyperglycemia, pneumonia, antidote, inflammation, oral care, syphilis, abscess, paralysis, and gynecological diseases.

Cuisine

Houttuynia Cordata’s leaves, stems, and roots are edible. The plant is grown and harvested for daily vegetable consumption, particularly in North and Northeast Thailand. It is also used as a culinary herb in some Asian cuisines and is appreciated for its anti-inflammatory properties.

The Japanese call this plant 蕺草 (dokudami), but like Korean, it has an affectionate nickname meaning “ten medicines,” 十薬 (juyaku). 

It is also called fishwort, fish leaf, or eosongcho (어성초 in Korean) due to its terrible fishy smell and aftertaste when eaten.

Beauty

Besides Heartleaf’s Skincare Benefits, Houttuynia Cordata has also researched benefits for hair. It promotes hair growth.

Houttuynia Cordata Skin Benefits

Korean beauty products are known for their unique ingredients, such as snail mucin, bamboo water, bee venom, and fermented plant extracts, and their focus on skin health and nourishment.
Additionally, Korean beauty trends are more experimental and innovative than other traditions.

Due to its numerous benefits for the skin, heartleaf has become a common ingredient in Asian beauty. Skincare brands use Heartleaf extract extensively, adding it to many skin care products, such as cleansers*, toners*, serums*, essences, creams*, sheet masks*, spot treatments*, and sunscreens*.

Jump to see the Best Products with Heartleaf.

1. Heartleaf is a potent antioxidant herb

Houttuynia cordata possesses a powerhouse of bio-actives and antioxidants. Research has shown it has a wide range of polyphenols, flavonoids, tannins, and vitamins known to be responsible for their anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties. These antioxidants protect the skin against pollution, stress, and UV rays. 

2. Anti-inflammatory

The Heartleaf plant extract has been used as a robust anti-inflammatory agent for treating atopic dermatitis and acne in traditional Korean herbal medicine.

3. Boosts Skin Hydration

On top of its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, research has found that Houttuynia Cordata extract contains polysaccharides. When present in skincare, polysaccharides serve as fantastic humectants, i.e., attracting water and hydrating the skin. Polysaccharides can accelerate skin renewal and help heal wounds, are anti-microbial, protect the skin from UV radiation and prevent oxidative stress and cancer.

This makes Heartleaf suitable for hydrating toners, serums, moisturizers, and masks.

4. Anti-aging

Houttuynia cordata extract also has anti-aging benefits by preventing the degradation of collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid in the skin. Interestingly, a new study shows an anti-aging effect by significantly increasing the skin’s telomerase activity (skin’s intrinsic aging mechanism).

5. Anti-acne

Herbal extracts are efficient in treating mild to moderate acne vulgaris. Herbal extracts generally have fewer adverse effects and can be a good alternative for those who would rather skip drugs.

Adding to its goodness for acne troubles, Heartleaf works to keep the skin healthy, calms, and detoxifies through several researched mechanisms:

• It has antimicrobial properties that fight against acne-related pathogens, making it a desired ingredient in anti-acne skincare products;
• The extract from Houttuynia Cordata leaves also has astringent properties that can effectively (but gently) deeply cleanse pores while regulating excess sebum production;
• Its anti-inflammatory effects are excellent in calming acne-prone skin.

6. Sun damage protection

UVB exposure is a major external cause of skin damage, aging, inflammation, tanning, wrinkling, DNA damage, and skin cancers. One of the main strategies for preventing UVB-induced skin damage is reducing the oxidative stress of skin cells. Using its antioxidant super-power, Houttuynia cordata has been proven to protect and attenuate UVB damage.

Remember that the Houttuynia cordata performance relies on whether the extract is derived from the roots or leaves and has been purified by water or alcohol extraction.

The polyphenol-rich extracts of Heartleaf have been shown to protect cells against UVA damage and oxidative stress. They prevent photoaging and intrinsic aging through anti-oxidation and anti-inflammatory functions.

7. Repairs the skin barrier

Houttuynia Cordata’s antioxidant properties work against atopic dermatitis by healing the damaged skin barrier.

8. Anti-allergic

There is also good evidence for powerful anti-allergic properties in Houttuynia Cordata extract, which could make Heartleaf especially beneficial for dermatitis/eczema-prone skin.

9. Lightens Hyperpigmentation

Antioxidants help prevent or slow pigmentation by fighting free radicals and inhibiting melanin synthesis. And provided that Houttuynia contains a large amount of polyphenols, which can reduce tyrosinase activity, Houttuynia Cordata can lighten the skin and fight pigmentation.

Who Should Use Heartleaf?

Studies into Heartleaf extract’s skin benefits have yielded convincing results, particularly for use on sensitive, oily-dehydrated, and acne-prone skin. 

Due to its anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, Houttuynia Cordata is an excellent addition to acne-prone skin. And because of its anti-aging benefits, the plant is fantastic for everyone (duh).

Houttuynia Cordata vs. Centella Asiatica

Houttuynia cordata and Centella Asiatica are popular plants in skincare because of their skin benefits.

Centella Asiatica, or Gotu Kola or Tiger grass, is a perennial plant that grows in tropical and subtropical regions. Centella Asiatica is a medicinal herb in Ayurvedic, African and Asian medicine. It is more widely known and used than its little sister, Houttuynia Cordata.

Like Houttuynia cordata, Centella Asiatica contains flavonoids and phenolic compounds with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activities that fight stress and pollution. Both have been proven to improve the skin barrier function and lock moisture in.

Centella Asiatica has added benefits like triterpenoid saponins, such as Asiaticoside and Madecassoside, that can stimulate collagen synthesis, improve skin elasticity, and prevent scarring. Centella Asiatica is widely known for its calming and soothing properties.

They are both edible, though Centella has a mild and slightly bitter taste that is more palatable than Houttuynia Cordata.

They both are considered safe to use topically and do not have side effects.

Houttuynia Cordata vs. Mugwort

Mugwort is another relatively unknown plant in the U.S., but it has been used for centuries in Asia.

Like Centella Asiatica, Mugwort is soothing and is best suited for sensitive, rosacea-prone skin. If redness or overall sensitivity is your skin concern, you should better go with Mugwort or Cica.

As well as Houttuynia Cordata, Mugwort has antibacterial and anti-fungal properties that help treat acne.

Best Products Containing Houttuynia Cordata

Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil

If you want to remove your makeup and day-to-day dirt without clogging your pores, try Anua Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil. It’s a gentle oil cleanser that contains heartleaf extract and plant-based oils to soothe and hydrate your skin. Just massage it on your dry face, add some water to emulsify, and rinse off with lukewarm water. Your skin will feel clean and refreshed!

Abib Acne Foam Cleanser

Abib Acne Foam Cleanser has a mildly acidic pH that leaves the skin pH closest to its healthy level. It contains heartleaf harvested from Mount Jiri to soothe and clear the skin. Salicylic acid helps improve troubled skin, and Centella calms down the redness.

Abib Heartleaf Calming Toner

The Abib Heartleaf Calming Toner is quite large, and even though I feel like I’m using it a lot, the volume doesn’t seem to decrease much. It contains heartleaf extract, glycerin, butylene glycol, two types of hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and Centella Asiatica extract. These ingredients soothe the skin, regulate oil production, and prepare the skin for the next steps in the routine. I love how gentle and refreshing it feels on my face.

I prefer using it as a toner pad, especially on acne-prone areas. The toner has a watery consistency, and applying it 2 to 3 times doesn’t bother me. It’s not sticky and has no scent. I’m impressed by how well it absorbs into my skin. I’ve noticed it helps to reduce redness during breakouts. So far, I love it!

Goodal Houttuynia Cordata Calming Sun Cream

Goodal Heartleaf Calming Moisture Sun Cream is an underrated sunscreen. It is better than the hyped Beauty Of Joseon Relief sunscreen or the Round Lab Birch Juice Moisturizing Sun Cream. It doesn’t sting my eyes. It is a moisturizing, antioxidant, and calming sunscreen with no white cast. Please read Goodal Houttuynia Cordata Calming Sun Cream’s in-depth review and give it a try.

Abib Heartleaf Sun Essence Calming Drop

The Abib Heartleaf Sun Essence Calming Drop combines essence and suncare. This product is fortified with heartleaf extract, which calms your skin and provides sun protection. I love how the milky-white essence absorbs fast into my skin. It’s fragrance-free and has a light texture that gives my skin a smoother-looking finish. 

Even though it doesn’t dry out into a matte finish, it doesn’t feel greasy, and my skin stays hydrated long after wearing it. Usually, I don’t skip my usual serum or essence before applying sunblock. Still, I did try skipping them for a few days and only applied my hydrating toner before applying the Abib Heartleaf Sun Essence. The hydrating effect seems sufficient, as my skin doesn’t feel too dry, and I did not notice any dry flacks. Also, please read Seo Yeon’s Abib Heartleaf Sun Essence Calming Drop Review.

Final Words

Houttuynia Cordata is a valuable herbal medicine with antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. Hence, there have been more and more skincare products featuring Heartleaf.

Korean skincare fan or not, I’d say this hallmark ingredient is a powerhouse in its own right. With more beauty brands beyond East Asia picking up on the Heartleaf hype (particularly the former), you’ll probably be able to find a product that suits your skin’s preferences and needs. I am a massive fan of Heartleaf and have a whole skincare routine with Heartleaf as the main (or only) active ingredient. I’ll credit this mighty herb for alleviating my fungal acne woes (more on that later).

Studies show this promising plant-based ingredient is an excellent addition to your skincare regimen. Still, scientific research on the effectiveness of Houttuynia Cordata in skin care is in its infancy, so it is best to consult a healthcare provider before using it for medicinal purposes.

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